To Be Colored or Not to be?

This is the question! To Be colored or Not to be?

We have Fretwork on the left side and the Cub Scout Logo on the right side.

I am thinking of just leaving them uncolored, and if I decide to sell these Patterns. I will let the buyer, buy as a finish yourself product to keep cost of materials down as well as the price.

I finished both of these today. The Fretwork took the longest, as I had to be slower around certain areas. As you can see more Fragile areas that could have been broken easily.

Well with my Skill. Muhahahahaha... It Shall go unbroken.

Kidding. For the most part here. I am using Oak 1/4" Ply. Don't really like it all that much, it seems to splinter often. Altou, i've been using my Craftsman blades, on the Fretwork, just for the Biggest sections thou, not the smaller. I was Lucky today and received my Scroll Saw Blades from Mikes Workshop.

After I finished off my biggest area on my Fretwork, I finished drilling my Smaller holes (Didn't have any Smaller Drill bits, So I took a 3/4" long 18g Brad Nail, Stuck it in my Drill press, upside down, Turned it on, Filed the head off of it, took it out, and Filled 1/2 way threw the nail bout 1/4 way down, this gives the nail a cutting Surface, Means Cleaner Holes, instead of puncture holes), then I put in my Flying Dutchman Blade. The Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse (FD-UR #5).

It has served me well for the rest of my Fretwork, Clean cuts easy cuts, compared to my Craftsman blades.

Now word to the wise thou, these blades are pretty well sharpen, that you need a study hand to guide these blades, or they will take control until you do. They will Slice threw the wood like a Hot butter knife threw butter.

These blades are a Blessing. Just the short few hours that I have used these blades. I am Truly impressed with the craftsmanship, The sturdiness. I would recommend these to anyone that is a beginner or even an advanced scrollsawer.

I will continue buying these blades from Mikes Workshop as long as he continues to carry them. For anyone interested again, check Mikes Workshop out, you will truly be amazed at the quality and craftsmanship of these blades.

Any comments upon the crafts displayed in this post are apprecited. Any Critque also, what could make it better, what could make it worse, ideas, etc.

Lay it on me!

Handi

Scroll Saw Blades!

Sorry for no post the last few days, I have been Searching for patterns while waiting on my new Blades to Arrive from Mikes Workshop, He has a very generous Supply. And I've decided to give him a try because he was prompt with answering my questions in email, and have directed me in the right direction on which blades to try and all.

So I'm waiting for my blades to Arrive so I can get started on some of my Patterns that require smaller blades then what I have available currently. Unfortunately, all I have are Craftsman blades, which don't get me wrong, they give you a pack of blades, no #'s on them, just the T.P.I and what they are good for. This ok, but not helpful, when you are doing a Pattern that requires say a #3 Blade. And craftsman dont' classify their blades by the # system.

So most of the blades that I have, well, work pretty well for the "Bigger" Patterns, but the more intrcate Detail, less then a 1/16 Diameter hole for tight cutouts and corners, these won't cut it. Literely. So while I wait impatiently and excidedly for my new blades to arrive, I've been reviewing my Pattern Stash in Adobe Format "PDF" and Printing some off and Glueing them to my Oak Plywood, And taping up with Packing Tape.

Yeah, I Know, Packing Tape??? Well from Lots of Reading, Questions, etc. I have figured out the reason as many others has figured out the reasons for Packing Tape. I'm not sure the Reason why, But packing Tape on your patterns, will Prevent Tareout on Older Blades AND will have not have burn Marks from the blades. The Adhesive from the Tape Helps Lubercates the Blades to prevent Burn Marks.

I've also red that alot of people said that it don't work, Well, I have to Disagree with that. it does work, it does reduce friction and you end up with a nice clean cut 99% of the time. The other 1%, Well could be the Blades are Dull and or Could've been what I call in computer terms, that Apply not only to computers, but as an error in General "USER ERROR". You see, a Machine can't go wrong by it's self. There has to be a "USER" Behind the machine to turn it on to operate it.

If there isn't no one behind the Machine, well, it don't work. So, it has to be used by a "USER" For it to operate, even the R/C Models.

Handi